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Post by Oti on Mar 2, 2009 2:14:05 GMT -5
After finding and watching the video, I see what you meant. The notch rotated around the bolts. Well, I made mine out of metal, so I can't give you any experienced help, per se. But, I recommend using wood that is wider, thicker, a different type (a stronger type, perhaps oak?) and I suggest putting another notch directly under the real notch. I doubt it would break with that much reinforcement. And if it helps, I tested my welding job on every notch by hitting it hard with a hammer from above (to simulate the bar) and then, when my Salmon Ladder was up, I slammed the bar down forcefully to see if they could take the strain. Only a few broke when I was actually on it, but then again, I wired welded them. After I reinforced them all with the stick welder, well, I tried to remove some to modify them. They won't come off. Best of luck.
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Ninja Chris
Jessie Graff
Chris Christensen
Posts: 1,037
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Post by Ninja Chris on Mar 2, 2009 12:02:06 GMT -5
I'm curious. How exactly did you connect the rungs of the salmon ladder to the sides? Whatever you've done, you've intelligently done twice to limit the rungs from rotating, but what did you use? It was quite simple. After I measured where I needed the rungs to sit, I drilled two hole straight through both the rung AND the 12 foot long 6"x4" wood, and put a couple factory-threaded bolts through. Then used Washers, Locks, and Nuts. Also, I've not seen a direct mention of the correlation between how far the rungs on your ladder jut out from the side structures and the propensity of them breaking. Keeping them jutting out only a little more than necessary to hold the pole would theoretically lower the torque (read: shearing force) created by the impact of the bar. Yes, how far the rungs stick out is kind-of a problem. I can't make it too far or it's impossible to move the bar around them (As well as not enough support for what is sticking out). I can't make it too short or the bar will not land in the hole. It was quite difficult to just guess at it, but I'm thinking I have too much sticking out this time. Either way, I will have some new metal rungs soon enough (I really can't trust wood for the rungs anymore). Not pipe, but thick metal sheets. My friend you saw at the end of the 2nd video will be helping me with that tomorrow morning.
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Post by Oti on Mar 2, 2009 12:48:47 GMT -5
That should work too. Don't worry about making them that long, doing that will, like you said, make it harder to climb and make them more likely to break because of leverage.
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Ninja Chris
Jessie Graff
Chris Christensen
Posts: 1,037
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Post by Ninja Chris on Mar 16, 2009 20:16:42 GMT -5
Finished the next part: The Pipe Slider. Now that it's built, I can easily make an extra piece, and practice the Rumbling Dice (Yes, I know they don't do it anymore, but it's still worth practicing for the arm strength.)
It should be viewable in HD.
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Post by obakemono on Mar 16, 2009 20:20:58 GMT -5
That was a stroke of luck, considering what seems to have appeared in the first stage...
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Ninja Chris
Jessie Graff
Chris Christensen
Posts: 1,037
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Post by Ninja Chris on Mar 16, 2009 21:34:14 GMT -5
That was a stroke of luck, considering what seems to have appeared in the first stage... Wha?
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Post by RiderLeangle on Mar 17, 2009 0:19:56 GMT -5
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Ninja Chris
Jessie Graff
Chris Christensen
Posts: 1,037
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Post by Ninja Chris on Mar 17, 2009 2:09:13 GMT -5
Nope. Haven't fixed it yet. This part has been the source of MUCH frustration (Actually getting it to work, getting the holes lined up, getting the pipe sizes right, and then actually getting it all together...), so we wanted to knock this one out.
But now that it's officially done, we'll be picking up some metal, and use those instead. This should be 100% complete VERY soon. But until then, I'll be training on this and the Rumbling Dice.
And I forget... what's the difference between the pipe slider and stick slider?
-EDIT-
Oh yeah! The Stick Slider is the metal after the Salmon Ladder. Ok, no. That one is (obviously) different, but was my inspiration to convert it to a pipe slider after instead.
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Post by RiderLeangle on Mar 17, 2009 4:06:51 GMT -5
I don't know, if it was a couple inches lower on the far side it'd be the Stick Slider.
Maybe you should get another plank, use the first boards as connectors and make long board notches so they're sturdier perhaps.
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