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Post by hashtagswag on Jul 5, 2013 7:04:54 GMT -5
What tips do you have to increase finger strength for training for obstacles like the cliffhangers and devil steps and so on . Are there any ways to increase finger stamina or strength . ?
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Post by Philip on Jul 5, 2013 7:36:32 GMT -5
Rock climbing is probably the best for that. I used to have a small cliffhanger replica, that helped a lot as well.
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Post by yamfriend on Jul 5, 2013 8:24:21 GMT -5
I don't know how efficient this would prepare someone for in terms of moving across actual obstacles in order to complete them, but for stamina-related purposes, I try to hang onto a Cliffhanger-size ledge for as long as I can. Doing so has allowed me to remain on it for a longer duration of time as long as I continue practicing with it (my best as of now is about 75 seconds). A similar concept applies to doing as many pull-ups and/or chin-ups as you can while on a Cliffhanger-size ledge, or any similar exercises while on such a ledge.
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Post by VeryCoolAlan on Jul 7, 2013 0:59:17 GMT -5
I just do pull ups on a 3cm ledge.
Works.
Don't overcomplicate it.
I don't do replicas I just train. Lol not calling out those that do
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Post by RoryAverage on Aug 22, 2013 11:36:54 GMT -5
Get one of these.  Practice alot and do this eventually.  |
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Post by Kninja on Aug 31, 2013 10:42:09 GMT -5
I used to do a ton of rock climbing and it did help, but I noticed that I wasn't getting much stronger after a while with my grip/finger strength. It is common to hit these plateaus. So after talking to some fellow climbers who were much stronger then me though their appearance would suggest otherwise. They turned me onto "campus" training or "campusing". Just youtube it and you will see what it is all about. I have been training this way for about 3 months and it has helped tremendously with my finger and grip strength. Though I have to warn you to be careful. It is not a workout for someone who is in just training halfway, you need to have a high level of grip strength already so you don't injure yourself. Though this engages muscle groups it really focuses on your tendons.
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Post by evan on Mar 28, 2015 16:30:20 GMT -5
What tips do you have to increase finger strength for training for obstacles like the cliffhangers and devil steps and so on . Are there any ways to increase finger stamina or strength . ? I agree with climbing/bouldering, campus board training (check out Sean McColl's video on YouTube), and if you can set up something home for frequent loading of finger tendons. I have this set up home Attachment Deleted |
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Post by Ben Baker on Mar 28, 2015 22:10:04 GMT -5
Did you buy that board with those on it? And did you bolt that to the wall or the pull up bar?
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Post by evan on Mar 28, 2015 23:37:33 GMT -5
Check out Blank Slate Climbing. The bar comes with the board attached and it's the only one out there as far as I know.
the wooden finger board is from Metolius.
Most holds, the campus rungs, the hanging ball and 3.5' pipe from Atomik Climbing
the grips on the bar are the Iron Bull TGrip 3'
(not sure if there is a policy here not to promote specific products, I don't have any financial interest with any of the above)
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Post by evan on Mar 29, 2015 11:25:31 GMT -5
something additional on tendon injuries: the home units help for rehab too, you can use full or partial leg support, or even use the doorway (like a spider climb). The key to reduce the chances of injury (imo) is progressive loading of the finger tendons, frequent loading, and avoid trying to push much beyond your current capacity (sometimes difficult to assess). Having said that, I don't know any climber that has not ever inured a tendon. It usually takes a few weeks to a few months for the pain to go away, and it can significantly affect your grip strength even if it's only one finger involved.
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Post by evan on Apr 19, 2015 22:49:37 GMT -5
this is a routine I do sometimes
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Post by Geoffnotjeff on Apr 20, 2015 13:18:57 GMT -5
Why dont you indulge in a real fingerboard workout?
Here is the basic formula.
7 sec hang, 3 sec rest, 6 times.
3 min rest
Repeat on same hold.
Start on jugs and work down to smaller edges, its a tested method for gaining fingertip and grip strength.
Do 6 holds, and do it twice a week.
Also, from that vid above, if you are training things like one finer assisted pullups - make sure you do full range of motion, really helps in the end. I could never do one arm pinkie pull ups but i can still at 35 with 0 training for them do one arm middle finger pulls, because i trained right for a long time! And dont forget to train one arm lockoffs! $$
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Post by evan on Apr 21, 2015 3:00:22 GMT -5
thanks for the recommendations brother! This is what I do sometimes when I'm home bored  For more serious training I like to go to the bouldering gym and spend 20-30 minutes on the campus board. |
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Post by evan on Apr 22, 2015 15:18:31 GMT -5
btw I really want to try finger/grip training on the hanging wt plates (got the idea from that video of yours in the lache thread). I was thinking to start with the 2.5-5 pound plates (my wife is not gonna be happy if I bring the 45s in our small apartment)and if too difficult to do them assisted.
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For more serious training I like to go to the bouldering gym and spend 20-30 minutes on the campus board.